{Works With Her Hands} The Making Of A Kirtle

This year, I am participating in a sewing challenge, called Historical Sew Fornightly. The challenge I chose to do this month was called "Under It All". So, I decided to sew an early medieval kirtle, or under dress.

I decided to do this for two main reasons. #1 - These dresses are beautiful, and I've seen many wonderful examples from other people in the sewing group. #2 - I thought it would be a great chance to learn new techniques.

What made this dress so different from other dresses that I have made is that it is a bust-supporting garment; that is to say, you don't wear a corset underneath like I do with my 1800's dresses. Instead, it is the fit and shape of the dress itself that provides the support. The other big learning curve is that for the most part these dresses are draped instead of cut from a pattern. This means that I created my own pattern by laying scrap fabric on myself and pinning till it fit correctly.

This was the first time I tried to drape my own pattern, and it was quite the challenge! It probably took me four tries, but I finally managed to get this:

Next, I used those pattern pieces to cut out the dress. This was the scariest part of the whole thing! Usually I don't flinch about cutting into the real fabric, but this time I was terrified, since I really didn't know if it was all going to work.

One of the coolest parts for me was learning about how to draft the sleeve. I've always had issues with sleeves on dresses I sew. Either the sleeves lay perfectly but restrict all movement, or they allow for free movement but have lots of ugly wrinkles. I never understood what the problem was or how to fix it, but researching how to draft a sleeve pattern explained all that! Apparently it has to do with the ratio between the measurement of your bicep and your armscye. Either way, this is the silliest looking sleeve pattern I've seen....but it works!

The actual process of sewing all the pieces together was very easy. It consists of two front pieces, two back pieces, and four skirt gores. I flat-felled all the seams, and did some basic facings for the sleeve and neckline hems. The sleeves button part-way up. The style of button used then is a self-stuffed fabric button. I made 24 of these, sewed them all onto the dress, and then had to do all the button holes!

The front laces up, so I also had to sew all the eyelets.

And here, finally, is the finished kirtle!

I'm very happy with how it turned out, and I'm so glad that I chose to do this project, because I learned a lot. Next in the making is a cotte, or over-dress to go with this.

And, the info for HSF:

What the items is: Medieval kirtle

The Challenge: #4 - Under It All

Fabric: 70/30 Linen/cotton blend

Pattern: my own, drafted using tutorials on Cotte Le Simple

Year: 1300s (?)

Notions: Thread

How historically accurate is it? About as much as time, money, and practicality allow. Since I won't be using this much, cut some corners, like blended fabric and sewing machine.

Hours to complete: Maybe 30, spread out over several days.

First worn: For the pictures, and just for fun the rest of the day around the house!

Total cost: $25 for fabric and thread.